Every
year, the winter offers a cold, howling wind that comes through the mountains,
valleys, forests, and fields. Over the
past 2 years, they call this “The Polar Vortex.” This term is just a fancy way
of saying that it’s brutally cold for an extended period of time. When I was a
kid, they just called this “winter,” but back then, I also walked uphill both
ways over sheets of solid ice on an 8-mile journey to get to school. Well, not
really, but it sounds like some of the conversation that tends to happen in the
comparative scheme of which winter is the worst.
The
truth is that it has been cold. The snow that we have has stuck around for an
extended period of time. The ice has frozen solid into large blobs or columns
that could withstand a hit from a 280-pound offensive lineman with little more
than a “is that all you’ve got cupcake?” in return to this challenge to its
grasp on the earth. If we look at this temperature trend objectively, we see
that it’s not going to be changing soon as there is more snow and ice to follow
as the temperature continues to dip significantly down below the magic 32°
line.
With
that, what better to do than go to Ricketts Glen to partake in the frozen
waterfalls with a group of hikers that came readily assembled off of Facebook groups like Pennsylvania Waterfalls and Hiking and Backpacking Pennsylvania?!!
Sara
and Ben Nevin helped me assemble the list of hikers for the day. After some
last minute cancellations, we were joined by my wife Heather, Dennis Crasper,
Susan Burdette Switzer, Aaron Campbell, Lori Dieter, Brian Kerr, Jakub Jasinski, Vaibhav Bhosale, and Kevin Hart.
Of course, we weren’t the only hikers in the falls area that day. In fact, by
the end of the day, the parking lot was full from at least 20 different cars.
It seems that winter waterfalls have
become a lot more popular than they were when I first got into them back in
February of 2004, let alone on my first excursion to an Ohiopyle State Park
dressed in white back in January of 2001. The parking lot was definitely a
testimonial to this, and I would say that it was good to see so many people
back at the waterfalls, though I question those who don’t have microspikes or
crampons (as based on my own experiences without them and the rules that say
that you must have them and an ice axe and a rope not to forget some really
helpful trekking poles) and those who choose to come back into God’s artistry
with the intent of smashing icicles to the ground (something about Leave No
Trace).
But this story isn’t about those negative things. It’s about
what’s good about hiking at Ricketts Glen in the winter. There is camaraderie
and friendships, both new and old. There is learning and experiencing. There is
a need to see the beauty of Nature in everything that is, and it is about experiencing
a treasure that can be brought back to the everyday world with pictures and
stories. It’s about a shared experience with some of the best photographers
that I’ve ever seen. This is also about our challenge to life’s frustrations, which
sometimes fill our backpacks – even if we mean to leave them at home.
And it really is a day where all things good stand out in the
frozen air of morning and get the inner furnace kicked on strong as the hikers
can push through the trails to discard hats and gloves in those moments of
photography that come between the “oohs” and “aahs” of the “is this vision
really real?”
And in many ways, it’s reliving the journeys past, the sum of
all moments, the physical endurance, the experience, and the dedication that
goes with the athletic training to reach confidence and ability, which together
allow for something like this.
And looking at it from this perspective, this was my 6th
journey into the Glen in the seasons that are guarded by a yellow line and a
couple of menacing looking signs which lists gear and a final warning to anyone
who might not think that this “traipse through the waterfalls” could turn out
to be a search and rescue mission for the DCNR who do their darnedest to make
sure that no hiker turns into a popsicle (and thank you to them for doing that
and still keeping the trails open and accessible so others can enjoy while
risking another one of those moments).
Fortunately, on this day, everyone made it out of the trail
intact. This was in no small part due to Sara’s moratorium to get as many
crampons on the ground as possible. This was also due to the fact that Ben is a
seasoned ice climber who has that rare mix of knowledge, patience, and drive.
Many teachers come to their task because
they can teach themselves, but Ben has a patience and gentle way of bringing
out people’s confidence when it’s their first time through a task. He also
knows how to spring people into action when they have to get through their
inhibitions and fear in the middle of a task so that they can stay in one piece
or at 98.6°.
As the hike went up the trail, we saw blue ice, cool little
formations that hid in obscured little cracks and crevices, mega waterfalls
frozen from the intense cold wave that also solidified the streams over the
creek (it’s important to note that I’ve never seen the creek this frozen), ice
caves, windows in the frozen stream and waterfalls, and hoarfrost formations.
And I should add that for anyone that’s never see hoarfrost
in its delicate beauty, it hangs in all of its fuzzy glory from the ceilings of
the most special of places. In fact, I can only ever remember seeing it at
Ludlowville Falls in New York (by Ithaca).
However, on this day, it was the highlight of our hike. Just like the
30-foot ice curtain that hangs on the wall above the Shawnee was the greatest
moment last year (a return to that spot for the first time since 2004), I was
in awe. My wife telling me how I had to get in there to see “this” couldn’t
possibly describe how pristine and joyous the sensation of looking up in that
“broom closet” of a cave was. And we all got that moment that day. How many
pictures were taken in the cave? How many selfies and posed shots for our
cameras, which we would upload to social media when we returned to a world of
Wifi that doesn’t exist in the Glen, would we take? The answer seems to be too
large to count! Nevertheless, we came, we saw, and we enjoyed.
And we did our best to make sure we left it intact for all of
the other people who would gaze upon it that day and when the next day’s
snowstorms ended. And we marveled at Marcus the Mouse as he scrounged around
the snow for food. We ascended the 16-foot Murray Reynolds as the waterfall was
buried beneath snow and ice that made it possible, though difficult to climb.
And then we climbed up to the cave area of Sheldon Reynolds, nearly 30 feet
above the pitch pool beneath us. We also wandered behind the ice wall at B.
Reynolds, which coincidentally is not named for Burt. We took our pictures by
the hundreds so that we could always remember these moments. And we did what we
had to do to stay safe on icy trails, frozen waterfalls, and snowy paths.
And we had lots of fun, which is why we were there in the
first place.
Next year, we’ll do it
again. When we do, we’ll assemble another group. I hope you’ll choose to get
the gear so that you can be a part of it. When you do, you can come up for the
day or the weekend. In this, Ricketts Glen has some beautiful family cabins for
you to stay in. For all the “roughing it” you would expect, you’ll be cozier
than in many hotels while getting to lay your claim on the top bunk!
However you choose to see the park, I hope you do. It’s a
jewel of Pennsylvania that has to be experienced.
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